
Small Chapel near the Plaza in Ajijic, Mexico
The brilliant author James Michener once said, “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” I have to say I agree with him.
As someone who has spent quite a lot of time in the past and present traveling (work and pleasure) it is important to do so with an open mind. I embrace the people and their culture. The food…that goes without saying. Trying different dishes is always a highlight for me (us). Outstanding Arabian food at a magnificent food truck in Ajijic was an amazing experience but that’s another story.
One of the most important celebrations in Mexico is Dios de los Muertos, the day of the dead. I live daily with ‘the day of the dead’ so spending several days with this celebration occurring day and night, is not something I was looking forward to. I’ll blame it on the face painting (skulls). My mind was changed by an artist who grew up in Ajijic. I have never met him but have immense respect for him. His name is Efren Gonzalez.
Someday I hope to meet him. I don’t say this lightly, his work truly opened my eyes and my mind. I embraced something I never thought I would.

Bas-relief clay plaques
While walking down the street, I glanced into a locked yard and I saw these clay plaques. Of course I cried, it was so moving. We continued down the street and I gasped when I saw this.

Mural de los Muertos
The entire building was made up of these incredible personalized bas-relief clay plaques.

Close up of the personalized bas-relief clay plaques- notice the small hole at the base of each neck.
At that point, I knew I had to find out more about this building. Obviously, I knew the plaques were personalized but who were these people?
I approached a young man who was walking by after he smiled and said “buenas tardes.” I adore how everyone smiles and greets you, whether they know you or not. I asked him about the building and what adorns it. His answer was a game changer for me. He smiled and said, “This mural was created by local artist Efren Gonzalez to honor the people of Ajijic who have passed on. The building is The Marcos Castellanos School. By having this on a school you are teaching kids from a young age that this is a beautiful thing, something to cherish and not fear. Our culture embraces death and the celebration of the dead. A metal plaque with a candle is inserted in each hole. The candles are lit Nov 1st and 2nd in celebration. You must come see it at night. It is Heavenly.”
By this time I was “ugly crying” and he hugged me. I explained why I was crying…the two year anniversary was the following day. I also shared that this was one of the most beautiful things I have seen. We hugged again and he continued down the street.
I continued to “ugly cry” but I was so grateful that my eyes and mind had been opened. Yes, I am an old dog (63) but I am an old dog with a very open mind. Thank you Senor Gonzalez.
Dearest Barb,
What a lovely, true Mexican post this is!
Yes, we all should embrace living with the dead, our loved ones that are no longer ‘visible’, but that are with us no doubt.
It is a most humble Christian gesture for observing such a two-day celebration of the dead.
Of course we should not be afraid of it as we all are going there, one day, sooner or later.
Children should be included in that culture too!
Thank you for sharing this and sending you hugs,
Mariette
Hi Mariette,
Thank you! This was a very special moment for me. I don’t fear death and I’m not anxious about going. Kind of looking forward to it as I know who is waiting for me! I am so thankful that I had the interaction with the man (Angel?) on the street. His explanation put everything (the culture) into place for me. What a wonderful way to honor and remember those who have passed. I totally agree that it is the most humble Christian gesture…two days devoted…nothing else gets in the way. Love it!
Take care my dear. Give Pieter a hug.
big hugs,
Barb
❤
Thank you! Sending it right back at ya!