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The Inspiration for Versailles: Vaux-le-Vicomte

The Front of Vaux-le-Vicomte

Chances are you’ve seen Vaux-le-Vicomte but didn’t realize it. Actress Eva Longoria and NBA star Tony Parker married there. Seventy movies to date have been filmed in this sumptuous château, including Moon Raker, The Man in the Iron Mask, and Marie-Antoinette. The BBC series Versailles was also filmed in this opulent château…fitting as Vaux-le-Vicomte was the inspiration for Versailles.

I was familiar with Vaux and its link to Versailles and Louis XIV but hadn’t visited. That recently changed while in Paris. It makes an ideal day trip—only 55 km from the city. To fully enhance your visit, a quick review of French history during Louis’ time is beneficial…this allowed me to put myself in Louis’ shoes…not an easy task.

A little French history—Fouquet and King Louis XIV
In 1641, Nicolas Fouquet purchased Vaux-le-Vicomte intending to renovate the ‘modest’ castle. Affluent to begin with, he becomes highly wealthy upon the death of his first wife. Fouquet was ambitious, intending to rise to the top of the court. Life was good when he was named Superintendent of Finances for Louis XIV…two years later, in 1656, work on Vaux began in earnest.

 

The South steps of Vaux

The South Steps of Vaux ©Barb Harmon

The work of the ‘ultimate dream team.’
Fouquet created a ‘dream team’ consisting of Louis Le Vau, architect extraordinaire, and Charles Le Brun, an accomplished painter and interior designer, and master gardener, André Le Nôtre.
Le Vau created a magnificent château surpassing all others in elegance and taste…inside and out. Creil limestone was used for the château, and stone and brick for the beautiful outbuildings. The elevated ground floor with three arched porticos on both facades allowed a sweeping view of the meticulous gardens that beg for exploration.

Le Brun painted a series of masterpieces on the ceilings, their rich palettes added to the brightness of the majestic rooms. He purchased only the best…chandeliers, furniture, and objets d’art and supervised the weaving of 120 tapestries designed as wall coverings. Le Brun executed the concept of covering walls with mirrors…soon to be imitated.

Ceiling of the Salon

The ceiling of the Salon © Barb Harmon

Le Nôtre created the first Jardin Français, which is still fashionable centuries later. Looking out from the south terrace, the formal garden and lawns seem to extend uninterrupted for miles. He was a master of optical illusion. The box hedging in the parterres mirrors embroidery…there are numerous ponds with impressive water features, sculptures, colorful flower beds, and private grottos. Small lakes reflect Vaux’s facade.

The first French formal garden

The first French formal garden ©Barb Harmon

Vaux-le-Vicomte was a perfect blend of architecture and nature.

Keep your enemies close.

As an agent to Cardinal Mazarin, the King’s Chief Minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, had access to Louis’ ear. Ambitious and jealous of Nicolas, he painted a negative picture of Fouquet when given the opportunity. Colbert didn’t care for Nicolas’ extravagance…perhaps he was skimming money from the crown. He planted the seed in Louis…Fouquet never saw it coming.

The first and last party—August 17th, 1661

Colbert encouraged Nicolas to invite the King and court to a lavish party in the almost finished château so they would see firsthand the cost of creating such magnificence.

Original marble table owned by Fouquet

Original Marble Table ©Barb Harmon

 

Bedroom of Nicolas Fouquet

Bedroom of Nicolas Fouquet ©Barb Harmon

 

Reflection from the Crown Ornamental Pond

Reflection from The Crown Pond ©Barb Harmon

Fouquet and his guests walked through the opulent château, strolled the meticulous gardens, and viewed a play by Molière. A sumptuous feast and fireworks topped the evening. Nicolas and his second wife thought the fête a great success.

Portals topped by finials

Portals topped by finials reflected in the moat ©Barb Harmon

Never outdo the King

Already suspicious of Fouquet, Louis wanted him arrested…visiting Vaux added fuel to the fire. Versailles, the hunting lodge he inherited from his father, paled compared to Vaux. He was determined that someday Versailles would be the most admired Palace in the world.

Fouquet was arrested for embezzlement on September 5th, 1661, after spending only a few nights in his château. Fouquet’s trial (without a lawyer) lasted three years, ending in a sentence of life imprisonment. Many believe the charges were unfounded, but the King’s decision was final. Fouquet died in 1680 at age 65 after spending 19 years in prison.

If it’s good enough for Vaux-le-Vicomte, it’s good enough for Versailles

State Bedroom

State Bedroom ©Barb Harmon

Louis moved quickly after Fouquet’s arrest. His family was exiled, and Vaux was seized. Most of the furniture, artwork, wall tapestries, statues, and even the orange trees were taken to Versailles and the Louvre, the Royal seat in Paris. The dream team of Le Vau, Le Brun, and Le Nôtre were soon working their magic on the Palace and grounds of Versailles.

From 1673 to 1875—waiting for the right owner

Vaux was returned to Fouquet’s family in 1673. His wife, Marie, held onto the 1235-acre estate until 1705 when maintenance and taxes proved too much to bear. It was sold twice, landing on the auction block in 1875 after sitting abandoned for 28 years. The château and outbuildings needed restoration, and Le Nôtre’s garden…unrecognizable.

A new beginning in 1875

The North front of the chateau

The North front of the château ©Barb Harmon

Alfred Sommier was the lone bidder…restoration on the 17th-century château and grounds started immediately, and no expense was spared. He purchased 17th-century pieces, always looking for objects that initially came from Vaux.

The eastern outbuildings

The eastern outbuildings as seen from the Dome ©Barb Harmon

The château has been passed down through Sommier’s family line…direct descendants, the de Vogüé family, are the owners. They continue the ongoing preservation started by Monsieur Sommier. In 1968, Vaux-le-Vicomte was opened to the public and is currently the largest private estate in France listed as a Historical Monument.

A modern-day visit—history comes alive.
Having seen photos of the château and grounds, I knew they were impressive, but I was bowled over seeing them in person. There is one word to describe both—Magnificent.

Costumes in the Italian Salon

Costumes in the Italian Salon ©Barb Harmon

 

Outbuildings and stables with movie posters

Outbuildings and stables ©Barb Harmon

My visit coincided with an exhibition Vaux-le-Vicomte at the Movies. This provided the opportunity to go behind the scenes of the movies and series filmed at Vaux. The opulent costumes on display took my breath away. So detailed, so gorgeous.

Le Nôtre Garden

The grounds are enormous. Before setting out, I recommend climbing the steep steps up to the Dome, where you will be rewarded with a panoramic view of the gardens. I gasped when I first took in the view.

The views of the French Garden from the Dome ©Barb Harmon

Golf carts are available for €25 (45 minutes) if you have limited time or difficulty walking. I walked the grounds and kept turning to see the château…Le Nôtre was The Master of optical illusion…

The Details
There are two restaurants on the premises. I had lunch at The Relais de l’Ecureuil (cafeteria), and the food was good (this is France, after all).

The Gift Shop has a vast array of merchandise… excellent merchandise… lovely merchandise. Some of it came home with me.

Visit the Carriage Museum and Le Nôtre exhibit housed in the stable block. With all kinds of rare carriages, coaches, and memorabilia…you could spend hours there. If you adore gardens, the Le Nôtre exhibit is a must-see.

Admission: €7-€16.50. Additional €3 for the Dome.

The Audio guides are available in 9 languages and are worth renting. It enhances the visit. €3.

Hours: 10-7 but can vary for a special event.

Parking is free.

Train: Gare de l’Est—take Line P. Taxis are available for the short ride to the château. There is also a shuttle bus (I didn’t use it, so I can’t comment).

Planning the second visit
I am already planning the next visit…this time with hubby in tow. I can’t wait for him to see it. Fingers crossed, he’ll make it up to the Dome.

Filed Under: Europe Tagged With: France, Louis XIV, Paris, Vaux-le-Vicomte

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Terry Saux says

    March 12, 2018 at 10:48 pm

    Another fabulous read, Barb…so enjoyed it!

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 13, 2018 at 3:56 am

      Hi Terry,
      Thank you so much! I appreciate it more than you know
      xx,
      Barb

      Reply
  2. Gracie says

    March 13, 2018 at 12:30 am

    Wow! Thank you for the virtual tour! Someday, just maybe someday, I’ll have the chance to visit! Until then I look forward to reading many more posts!

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 13, 2018 at 12:36 am

      Hi!
      Thank you for visiting. Put this on your list…it’s one fantastic chateau!
      The photos don’t do it justice.

      Reply
    • Linda Gardner says

      September 12, 2021 at 8:15 pm

      I’ve been there and its fabulous. I love the history of the house and felt it when I walked around. Tge article is very good and describes Vaux perfectly. I loved the gift shop too.
      One day you must go.

      Reply
      • Barb Harmon says

        September 25, 2021 at 1:14 pm

        Hi Linda,

        Thank you for visiting, commenting, and leaving great feedback; I appreciate it!
        Vaux remains at the top of my list of fav chateaux. I’m looking forward to a repeat visit {hubby too}.

        Take care,
        Barb

        Reply
  3. Mariette VandenMunckhof-Vedder says

    March 13, 2018 at 3:37 am

    Dearest Barb,
    Have you ever watched the French movie series Angélique?
    It is very much about that era and the same figures.
    So much intrigue at that time; and all times…
    By the way, it will reopen on March 17!
    Hugs,
    Mariette

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 13, 2018 at 3:47 am

      Hi Mariette,
      That series is not on my radar. Thank you for bringing it to my attention because I believe I would love it!
      That period in time is so interesting…the drama, the characters. I will check it out. The timing is dicey but I will find a way.
      Big hugs to you and Pieter,
      Barb
      xx

      Reply
      • Mariette VandenMunckhof-Vedder says

        March 13, 2018 at 12:38 pm

        Dearest Barb,
        There are books about her too and in France you will be able to find some DVD or whatever: http://amzn.to/2Iksvnk
        Hugs for both of you,
        Mariette

        Reply
        • Barb Harmon says

          March 13, 2018 at 5:17 pm

          Thank you Mariette! I will be on the lookout, I’m a serious reader.
          Hugs to you and Pieter.
          xx

          Reply
          • Mariette VandenMunckhof-Vedder says

            March 13, 2018 at 5:21 pm

            ⚜

          • Barb Harmon says

            March 13, 2018 at 5:23 pm

            You know it Mariette.
            XX

  4. Dee Fisher says

    March 13, 2018 at 3:47 am

    What a wonderful trip through history. Thank you for the visual it was beautiful. Love to read about your trips. They are always so interesting.

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 13, 2018 at 3:54 am

      Hi Dee,
      Thank you so much for taking the time to read my post. I love history and this story made such an impression on me.
      You can feel the history as you drive toward the chateau…I’ve never felt anything like that.
      xx,
      Barb

      Reply
  5. Andrea Lynn Fisher says

    March 13, 2018 at 4:14 am

    Hi Barb! This is such a wonderful post! To read the details, surrounding the history, while viewing your beautiful images feels like travelling along side of you. So happy you’re getting so much out of this trip. Much love Andrea

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 13, 2018 at 5:21 pm

      XX

      Reply
  6. Andrea Lynn Fisher says

    March 13, 2018 at 4:17 am

    Hi Barb! This is such a wonderful post! Reading the details, surrounding the history, while viewing your beautiful images had me feeling as if I was travelling along side of you. So happy you’re getting so much out of this trip. Much love Andrea

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 13, 2018 at 5:21 pm

      Hi Andrea,
      Thank you for visiting and commenting. I have to tell you, I’ve visited many château but this one had a different vibe. Can’t wait to show this to Ray. He’s seen my photos, now he needs to see the real deal. Hoping for great weather. Five more sleeps till I return with hubby in tow.
      Love and hugs to you,
      Barb

      Reply
  7. Annalise Fiebiger says

    March 14, 2018 at 2:25 am

    How amazing it all is! I would need to tour the gardens and everything else! Reminds me of fairy tales!

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      March 15, 2018 at 9:50 pm

      Hi Annalise,
      You would seriously love it…the chateau, gardens, everything. Even the drive from the station is charming. It is like something out of a fairy tale. I am looking forward to returning…hopefully in a couple weeks.
      Thank you for visiting and commenting.
      XX,
      Barb

      Reply
  8. Latesha says

    April 8, 2018 at 9:44 pm

    whoah this blog is great i love reading your articles.
    Stay up the great work! You realize, a lot of people are hunting around for this info,
    you could aid them greatly.

    Reply
    • Barb Harmon says

      April 8, 2018 at 11:14 pm

      Thank you!

      Reply

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