Take a walk on the wild side? In Molière’s Pézenas? Mais oui, especially in high season. During the summer/fall months, the city seems to get by on a few hours of sleep, unfortunately for me.
Crowds, Crowds, Everywhere, Crowds
We arrived in Molière’s village in June, smack dab in the middle of high season. Our arrival date was a national holiday (seriously), so we had a few days to “chill” at a hotel before securing the keys to our flat. I thought this was perfect as it gave us time to check things out—our bank, shops, and restaurants. It also provided time to get a feel for our new neighborhood.
Pézenas is a small town. Less than 9000 inhabitants call it home, but on a glorious summer day, when it’s mobbed with tourists (and tour buses), it feels like 90,000. Okay, slight exaggeration, but it is crowded, very crowded.
Daily Tour Groups
In the distance, we could see our building, but we couldn’t break through the crowds to reach it: this was crazy, but it turned out to be typical. Molière (1622-73, French actor, director, and playwright, among other things) is celebrated in a big way here (he called Pézenas home for a while). We had just stumbled upon a neighborhood Molière tour…complete with the crowd chanting his name (the tour guide prompted the group when to shout—repeatedly). Initially, this seemed bizarre, but a few weeks later, sitting in my living room, it seemed normal; the chanting didn’t faze me a bit.
This pic was taken on Sunday!
What was unusual? The crowds of people clutching a small guidebook and map standing in front of the door of our building, taking photos, blocking our entry and exit. It reminded me of the Hollywood Homes Tours in L.A. At that point, I decided to pick up a guidebook at the tourist office.
What’s on the Map? Our Street
A few minutes later, I was at the tourist office, thumbing through the guidebook. Looking closely at the map, I saw that our street and building are ‘must-sees.’ Okay, so that explains the crowds.
We live in a 17th-century stone building in the center of the beautifully preserved historic district. The narrow, twisty, often cobbled streets are pedestrian-friendly and made for walking (depending on your choice of SHOES). I know it’s difficult to believe, but on occasion, the cute shoes win, and I kind of stumble along (but the shoes are cute).
The neighborhood buildings are tall—three, four, or five stories. The streets are shady due to the height of the buildings. The temperature is easily 10 degrees cooler in the summer, and you can feel the difference once you enter the district. The reverse can be seen in the colder months when you walk quickly to reach a sunny spot.
A Walk Down Our Street
Many have asked what our street looks like, so I thought I’d take you on a little tour. The shops are on the ground floor; the upper floors are residential. I must confess several shops seduced me, and I forgot about taking pics, but this will give you an idea of what can be found down our street (for a ‘browser’ aka shopper, it’s fantastic).
Beyond Charming: Welcome to Rue Alfred-Sabatier
Our building is between a candle shop managed by my friend Mimi and a marvelous gem/jewelry shop run by a friendly couple. Claire’s shop is across the street. She is a master basket weaver and makes all of her items.
Our door is to the left of Mimi’s shop.
Claire’s Shop—weaver extraordinaire
See the niche on the corner: Saint Roch (1350-1379) and his dog. You can read about his life here.
Saint Roch. Patron Saint to Animals, surgeons, and chemists.
Moving right along… A fantastic leather shop with stylish bags, jewelry, and belts, all handmade—one of my favorite spots to browse.
This shop has my name all over it!
There can never be too many clothing boutiques.
Be still my heart
Spices, salts, and more.
I could spend the day here. Look at the original beams!
One of my favorite ceramic shops. Very imaginative creations.
Home decor made with love. A treasure trove inside.
My love of handbags should come as no surprise. I was thrilled when I spotted this gem.
Fantastic name and fantastic bags.
Of course, there’s a petite ice cream shop. DELICIOUS!
Yum!
The colors are vibrant, and the clothing is well-made.
I lost my mind in this shop. The skirts…
The best scarf shop in town.
The selection is marvelous.
.
Looking back toward our building. Picture perfect
So, there you have it—our street (minus maybe eight shops). I still pinch myself daily.
The pinching right now is due to the nightmare of a strike. It affects the entire country, not just Paris. I’m crossing my fingers that we can fly out of Montpellier for a Christmas getaway. Of course, there’s a layover at CDG, so…back to the Mantra. But.We.Live.In.France.
Merry Christmas, and Happy Hanukkah! See you in 2020.
XXX (three kisses in Pézenas)
Dear Barb….So happy to see these gorgeous photos and read about your new life. Such a wonderful historic home too!!! Sending hugs from the other side of the Atlantic. Wishing you and your loved ones a beautiful Christmas…and tons of blessing in the New Year
Hi Andrea!
I hope all is well with you and hubby. Thank you for visiting and commenting…you know I appreciate it! I still can’t believe we live here.
Have a beautiful holiday, my friend. See you in 2020.
XXX
What a marvelous place to call home! Your street (alley) is just perfect.
Thank you for the tour…needless to say I am quite jealous.
Hope you guys have a blessed Christmas.
Hi Terry,
It is a pretty special place. We were just eating dinner and a band walked by playing a haunting song! It’s crazy, and I love it!
Wishing you and yours a very Merry and blessed Christmas.
XXX
Dearest Barb,
Oh, fully understand your excitement here!
This is the BEST mix of medieval buildings and stylish boutique style shops with quality items.
A little village of 9,000 in the Old World still has a solid heart in the center and often more than rural US towns where things are all so distant.
Yes, you can shop on foot, as we could in Italy.
And the down side is that these medieval alleys cannot have many vehicles passing through. IF a fire occurs, it still is passing the bucket with water in order to fight it…
Poor Molière himself was taken out of this romantic life style at age 51… Sure back then the plague and so many other infections did in most of them. Also the preservation of meats and such was by using salt and lots of salt. Resulting in kidney failure… SAD facts.
I’ve written about that in an earlier post where painter Rembrandt slept and how most Dutch and also French people slept, due to kidney problems… seated instead of laying outstretched. https://mariettesbacktobasics.blogspot.com/2019/10/french-lit-closdutch-bedsteebox-bed-or.html
Enjoy your new surroundings and live with the occasional crowds.
Have a safe trip and hope the strike will not affect you. It did affect us in Italy big time as our belongings arrived only after 8 weeks… Haha, but we lived and worked in Italy!
Merry Christmas to you and Ray from Pieter and me.
Hugs,
Mariette
Hi Mariette,
You are so right; this is the best mix of medieval buildings and FABULOUS boutiques (with great prices).
Every once in a while, a car comes down the street, and I hold my breath — our moving van…dear Lord…nightmare.
Moliere’s Barbershop is across the square from us, hid barber chair is in the museum a few blocks away. I get a kick out of it as my dad was a barber!
Thank you for the share. I look forward to reading it.
Merry Christmas to you and Pieter! May 2020 be filled with health and joy.
hugs and XXX
Well, we’ve had to reserve a taxi for the hour ride to Montpellier (OUCH). We don’t have a train station here, but we do have great regional buses (kind of lux coaches). I received a heads-up that the buses aren’t running today, nor the trams in Montpelier. Our taxi driver is fantastic and was willing to drive on a moment’s notice, so off we head to Montpellier. Praying there are no issues with Airfrance or flight controllers, etc. UGH
Hi Mariette,
XXX
Good grief, my hearts never show up… xoxo
I know, but I always appreciate you sending them.
XXX
Hi Barb,
Your street couldn’t be more dreamy. It’s just beautiful. And the shops!!! I’d go broke after the first day.
I’m so excited to watch you living your dream. It makes me so happy.
Have a wonderful Christmas and a blessed new year ahead. I can’t wait to see what adventures it brings.
Hi Laurie,
Dreamy is the perfect description. It is dreamy! I have to keep myself in check from going hog-wild in the shops. Actually, the prices are shockingly low.
My best buy so far…gorgeous sweaters for 10 euros. The ‘sweater guy’ gives me a kiss whenever he sees me.
I hope you and yours have a beautiful Christmas. This is the first Christmas since J.W passed that I really feel joy. I know he would be so pleased.
XXX
Joyeux Noel! Your town and street and building look perfect! Thanks for the tour.
Jenny
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for stopping by AND leaving a comment. I appreciate it! The town is so charming, and the streets (all of them) are picture-perfect.
Joyeux Noel to you and yours.
XXX
Dear Barb,
I always love reading your posts. My husband and I are busily planning our year in France next year 2020 = 20Plenty!
Joyeux Noël!
Stephanie (from Australia)
Hi Stephanie,
Thank you so much! I appreciate you following along!
I’m so excited for you two. Will you be anywhere near us? It would be fantastic to meet up.
Please keep me posted if you can (I know how busy you’ll be, trust me).
Joyeux Noel!
XXX
Oh my goodness Barb it’s been way too long since I have visited your blog.
What a wonderful wonderful little place you all have landed in.
I just love the write up and all the photos,So happy for you two you definitely deserve it.
This life we live is a journey and I’m glad to see you embracing it.
Happy holidays and all of our heavenly father’s blessings,
Robin Ramirez
Robin!!! Hi! It has been a while for both of us; me posting and you visiting. Hehe
Isn’t it charming? It is SMALL, we’ve never lived in such a small town, so that takes a bit of an adjustment.
We are embracing everything, and it feels great.
Merry Christmas, my friend and may we all have a blessed 2020.
XXX