There are many things I (we) like about living in France, especially in a ‘smallish’ village, so it was difficult to narrow it down to a handful or two. Here are my top picks in no particular order.
1. Everyone is greeted. Upon entering a café, boulangerie, etc., everyone is welcomed with a “Bonjour’ followed by madame/monsieur. If you are friends with the person, expect the customary le bise as well (three in Pézenas). Upon leaving, it’s “au revoir, bonne journee.” Being American, I add a wave to both scenarios. I was shocked by the number of people who waved back. It must be like a yawn; it’s contagious.
2. Many French people speak more English than they initially share. We have found that folks who claim to speak zero English suddenly find their “English tongue” once they discover we’re American. There are questions, and they want to chat. It’s always a surprise, and I love it!
3. Life comes to a screeching halt for lunch at 12:00 or 12:30. Shops, businesses, and public offices promptly close and lock the door at the appointed time. Most businesses reopen at 2 pm (14:00) or 2:30 (14:30), but some reopen later, if at all—there seems to be no rhyme or reason. At first, it was frustrating. Very frustrating. Now, I try to do my shopping, errands, etc., before noon. I’ve adapted to the rhythm of the village.
4. Stores are closed on Sunday (and many are closed on Monday). The major grocery stores are open Sunday until 12:30, and then they also close. I like this. Back in the day, stores in the US were closed on Sundays, and we survived. The closing forces Ray and me to shop on a timely basis, and it eliminates mindless wandering. Not that I would ever do that…
5. The healthcare system includes resident ex-pats, and it is generous. Here’s a link to a previous post regarding healthcare.
6. Café life is alive and well. You own your seat in a café. Once you’ve placed your order, there’s no need to worry about being rushed from your table. The table is yours as long as it is required. It could be as short as 5 minutes for a quick coffee or several hours if the weather is beautiful and you are enjoying the company of new friends.
7. The presentation is everything. Years ago, while living in Luzern, I became aware of the importance of presentation. Little ‘things’ were wrapped with care and attention as if they were priceless relics; items from the bakery were almost too pretty to open. Years later, in Pézenas, I still get excited when I open a beautifully wrapped box from my favorite patisserie.
8. Our quality of life has improved dramatically. We’ve been forced to slow down whether we want to or not. I’ve always been a ‘go fast or go home’ (type A?) type of person. Coincidently, Ray is the exact opposite. Guess who has adapted quickly to the rhythm of life in the south of France? Moi, I’ve come around, and now I appreciate my newfound pace of life.
Well, there you have it—my top picks. I wonder if they’ll change over the years.
Next week, we head to Nice (and the surrounding area) for Carnaval. This year’s theme is The King of Fashion, and I envision King Karl and King Yves. Now, that is one Carnaval I am genuinely excited to see!
Rosemary says
How fun to read your blog! I lived in Valence for one year, but I haven’t been back for 10 years! Your column makes me wistful for the charm! Hoping to go back for a road tour in May & June! Looking forward to hearing more!!
Barb Harmon says
Hi Rosemary,
Welcome! Thank you for finding me and commenting; I appreciate it.
I’ve never been to Valence (unless the train station counts), but I’d love to visit.
I think once the French charm gets under your skin, it never leaves.
I hope you can go on your road tour…keep me posted. It sounds like fun!
Stephanie Hutchinson says
Hi Barb,
Love reading your posts!
It’s getting close for me and my husband to do the same. Just gathering all the info for the long stay visa!
When it sometimes feels like we’re biting off too much, I read your posts and become all inspired again!
Thanks so much,
Stephanie
Barb Harmon says
Hi Stephanie,
Thank you! I’m so glad you are enjoying my posts. It’s nice to be writing again.
Good luck with gathering the required documents; it’s a bit overwhelming.
You are not biting off too much if you have the desire to live here. It’s marvelous. Okay, not the paperwork, that seems to be never-ending.
Hopefully, we’ll meet someday.
XXX
Mariette VandenMunckhof-Vedder says
Dearest Barb,
Love these points as I know them so very well.
Each and every trip (66 in total now) back to Europe, I have to pinch myself about the shop closing times and that ugly Monday being closed thing. Some even on Tuesday morning. It makes it harder to plan.
Presentation is true and you just sit and look at it before savoring its actual contents; double pleasures.
Three kisses we were used to in the very French cultured Province where I grew up… Big difference from the USA.
Gad you managed to adapt to a different pace of life!
Hugs,
Mariette
Barb Harmon says
Hi Mariette,
DANG…66 trips…I would have lost count. You are so right with the closings, it does make it difficult to plan, especially for last-minute items.
I know you love the presentation as much as I do (we both have good taste), and it does double the pleasure.
I’m trying to remember if we had kisses in Epe, it was such a long-time ago.
You and Pieter have a marvelous weekend. Stay well!
XXX and hugs
Mariette VandenMunckhof-Vedder says
Happy weekend to you and Ray xoxo
Barb Harmon says
Thank you, Mariette!
XXXOOO
Laurie Chaffin says
I love this. It’s so much better than all the hustle and bustle of the US. I could get into this pace at an instant. I’m just so happy for you two! Have a good day.
Barb Harmon says
Hi Laurie,
Thank you for visiting and commenting.
You would quickly get into the groove here. It is definitely chill, quite a difference from the US.
We just got home from the Saturday market and coffee with friends. Now, a long lunch at home with hubby.
I like this chapter.
Have a good weekend.
XXX
Christi says
Finally a chance to sit and really read. I love that you are getting used to the rhythm of the days there. It sounds wonderful to me all the shop closings and slowing down of life, but would really force me to become a planner about mealtimes, etc. Some things I LOVE to plan (travel, family gatherings, field trips, etc.), but meals — and hence, shopping trips — are unfortunately not one of the things I love to plan. So much beauty where you are… and of course you add to that just by being there. 🙂
Barb Harmon says
Hi Christi,
You are one busy lady; I hope your vacation was a relaxing one! I thought I was used to the slower village vibe, but I’ve slipped right back into a hectic one. We are in Nice, and it so busy right now. I hate to confess, but we moved right back into the craziness as if we’d never lived in a small village. I’m not sure if that is a good thing or not… Ray is enjoying it immensely.
Thank you for stopping by and commenting, you know it is always appreciated.
Sending hugs and much love.
XXX